Caring for a pool table.

Cleaning the cloth: brush or vacuum

This is the main point where care sources disagree, so here are both approaches side by side.

Cloth type matters here too. Dr. Dave Alciatore notes that woolen (napped) cloth needs regular brushing in one direction, with the nap running head to foot, and that it hides dust that can work down toward the slate. Worsted cloth holds chalk on its surface, where it can be removed. See cloth for the difference.

Products to keep off the cloth

Simonis advises against using maintenance products on its cloth because they can stretch or discolor it. Monarch adds that spray cleaners can loosen the Simonis weave and leave a waxy buildup.

Spills

Monarch's steps:

1. Blot right away with a clean, undyed cloth. Do not use paper towel.
2. Dab the spot with cool water.
3. Let the cloth air dry before playing, and leave the table uncovered while it dries.

Covers

Monarch says to cover the table whenever it is not in use, with the one exception above: leave it open while a spill dries. No source we read compared cover materials, so we do not recommend one type over another.

Knowing when the cloth is worn out

Sawyer Twain lists the signs: threadbare spots near the pockets and the break area, an uneven roll, burn marks, chalk that will not clean out, and ripples or pulling at the rails. It also gives replacement intervals (about 5 to 7 years for light home use and 3 to 5 for regular home use), while Pool Table Portfolio says there is no universal interval and you should decide by inspection. Before blaming the cloth for a poor roll, Pool Table Portfolio says to rule out dirt, moisture, the balls and the table setup.

Small divots from miscues, low hits, worn tips or jump shots are less of a concern than they look. Dr. Dave says they do not grow and balls roll over them with little deflection. Keeping tips shaped and chalked, covered on the shafts and tips page, helps prevent them.

Cushions

Pool Table Portfolio says cushion rubber has no fixed service life. If the rails seem dead, first check how the rubber is attached to the rail, the condition of the cloth over it, and the nose height, before concluding the rubber itself needs replacing. Details on cushion height and profiles are on the slate and cushions page.

Cleaning balls

Balls affect the cloth too. Black Label Billiards notes that polyester balls run hotter from friction and leave burn marks on cloth. Aramith recommends cleaning phenolic balls after each game with its Ball Cleaner applied with a microfiber cloth, then buffing dry by hand or with an electric buffer, and using its Ball Restorer first on very hard spots. Monarch repeats the after-every-game advice. Aramith's microfiber cloth can be washed at 60 °C (140 °F) but should not be ironed. More on the balls page.

Chalk habits that protect the table

Seybert's notes that chalk that is too soft leaves residue on the balls and cloth, and that matching chalk color to the cloth makes residue less visible. It also says to apply chalk with a light brushing motion, because grinding the tip into the cube causes wear and buildup.

Keeping the table level

Seybert's is firm that a table should be fully re-leveled after any move, even a short one. Non-slate beds have a further problem: Billiard Factory says re-leveling a warped non-slate bed does not fully fix the warp, and new cloth only hides it temporarily. Pro Billiards recommends professional leveling for slate tables. The full installation and leveling process is on the slate and cushions page.

Environment

• Moisture. Pro Billiards warns that MDF beds are vulnerable to moisture and can warp, and that a Slatron core can swell if moisture gets past its laminate.
• Floor load. Triangle Billiards says a slate table's weight can damage some floors over long periods.
• Heat for carom. European carom norms require official carom tables to have a thermostat-controlled heater, run through the whole competition, to drive humidity out of the slate and cloth.
• Chalk and cues. Seybert's says to keep chalk away from moisture, temperature extremes and sunlight, and McDermott recommends storing cues at about 70 °F and 40 to 50% humidity.